About Miniature Hereford Cattle
We get emails frequently from people who are new to cattle and want information on Miniature Herefords. I put together this page to answer some of the most frequently asked questions. If you purchase cattle from The Craig Farm, we are happy to provide mentorship for as long as you need/want it.
For more information on Miniature Herefords, please check the Miniature Hereford Breeders Association.
For more information on Miniature Herefords, please check the Miniature Hereford Breeders Association.
What is a Miniature Hereford?
Miniature Herefords were selectively bred over many generations by the Largent family in Texas to be small Herefords - think of the "classic" sized cattle of the 1950's and earlier. Miniature Herefords are real Herefords. They are registered with the American Hereford Association (AHA) as Herefords. At this time, there is no size distinction on the registration certificate. Mini Herefords have not been crossed with smaller breeds to decrease size; dwarfism is not present in these cattle. Miniature Herefords are kept for beef, as pasture pets, and as show cattle.
Miniature Herefords are ideal for small farms in many ways:
* They are excellent mothers who produce plenty of milk for fat, sassy calves.
* Miniature Herefords require less feed than standard sized cattle, allowing the small farm to maximize production.
* Miniature Herefords are easy to manage.
* Miniature Herefords are eye-catching. We have literally had people stop in the road next to our pasture to admire our cattle.
* Miniature Herefords produce a smaller amount of beef that is easier for a small family to store and consume.
Find more information on Miniature Herefords on the Mini Hereford Breeders Association website.
Miniature Herefords are ideal for small farms in many ways:
* They are excellent mothers who produce plenty of milk for fat, sassy calves.
* Miniature Herefords require less feed than standard sized cattle, allowing the small farm to maximize production.
* Miniature Herefords are easy to manage.
* Miniature Herefords are eye-catching. We have literally had people stop in the road next to our pasture to admire our cattle.
* Miniature Herefords produce a smaller amount of beef that is easier for a small family to store and consume.
Find more information on Miniature Herefords on the Mini Hereford Breeders Association website.
Cattle Terminology
Heifer - female that has not had a calf
Cow - female that has had a calf
Bull - intact male
Steer - castrated male
Calf - unweaned baby
Cow - female that has had a calf
Bull - intact male
Steer - castrated male
Calf - unweaned baby
What size are they?
I am 5'4" pictured with our smallest cow at 2.5 years old. Weights on our cattle range from 700-1200 pounds. Birthweights are variable by bloodline. On our farm, most of our calves are 45-55 pounds.
The Miniature Hereford Breeders Association has an official height chart here.
The Miniature Hereford Breeders Association has an official height chart here.
How many Mini Herefords can I have?
This is one of the most common questions I receive about Mini Herefords. Unfortunately, it's impossible to give a straight forward answer. The number of cattle your property can support is called your "stocking rate". Some things that affect your stocking rate include:
* How many acres you have.
* How long your growing season lasts.
* How much rain your location receives or if you're in a drought year.
* Whether you rotationally graze or not.
* What type of grass you have.
* Do you amend your soil at all?
* Will you be feeding grain?
* Do you plan to harvest hay from your own pasture or purchase hay?
Reach out to your county extension office for guidance on your local stocking rates for cattle. If you are wanting a couple of "pasture pets" then I would say you need at least one acre for a pair of Mini Herefords, divided into two paddocks. On this small of a parcel, expect to be feeding hay year-round.
Someone looking to start a small breeding program should plan for at least 5 acres, divided into 1/2 to 1 acre sized paddocks. This will allow you to separate calves at weaning time while allowing the main herd a few paddocks to rotate through.
* How many acres you have.
* How long your growing season lasts.
* How much rain your location receives or if you're in a drought year.
* Whether you rotationally graze or not.
* What type of grass you have.
* Do you amend your soil at all?
* Will you be feeding grain?
* Do you plan to harvest hay from your own pasture or purchase hay?
Reach out to your county extension office for guidance on your local stocking rates for cattle. If you are wanting a couple of "pasture pets" then I would say you need at least one acre for a pair of Mini Herefords, divided into two paddocks. On this small of a parcel, expect to be feeding hay year-round.
Someone looking to start a small breeding program should plan for at least 5 acres, divided into 1/2 to 1 acre sized paddocks. This will allow you to separate calves at weaning time while allowing the main herd a few paddocks to rotate through.
How Much Hay Do I Need?
Again, this is variable to your location. Determining your hay need is dependent on your herd size, your growing season, the quality of hay, and the bale size. It may also become necessary to feed hay in summer if you aren't getting enough rain.
In north Georgia, we typically start feeding hay in mid-October and feed through the beginning to middle of March. A cow will eat about 2% of her weight in hay per day. We plan for 30 pounds of hay per cow per day - that is a high estimate, but gives wiggle room for pregnant/nursing cows, new calves that may be born during hay feeding season, and wastage. One Mini Hereford will need about 4,500 pounds of hay during that time. That's approximately 6 small (800 pound) round bales for one cow.
In north Georgia, we typically start feeding hay in mid-October and feed through the beginning to middle of March. A cow will eat about 2% of her weight in hay per day. We plan for 30 pounds of hay per cow per day - that is a high estimate, but gives wiggle room for pregnant/nursing cows, new calves that may be born during hay feeding season, and wastage. One Mini Hereford will need about 4,500 pounds of hay during that time. That's approximately 6 small (800 pound) round bales for one cow.
What do I need to care for Mini Herefords?
Good Fencing: Whether you choose barbed wire, electric, woven wire or something else entirely you must have a sturdy perimeter fence. Install correct wooden corner braces and fence posts every 8-10 feet. Make sure wire fencing is stretched properly. Check your perimeter fence often and make repairs as soon as the need arises.
Good Grass: Not sure what's growing in your field? Reach out to your local extension office or farm co-op for guidance, especially if you plan to amend the soil or re-seed.
Hay: Hay is essential winter feed. See my note in the above section about estimating hay for your herd.
Water: Set up at least one water trough with an auto-fill valve on it. Cattle will drink a lot during the heat of summer.
Holding Pen with Alley: We were able to get by with our Mini Herefords for several years without a holding pen, but it would have made a lot of jobs much easier if we had one to begin with. I now consider it a must-have.
Shade: Here in Georgia, our cattle don't need a barn but they do need plenty of shade. When it's 98* outside with 70% humidity, don't make your cattle travel too far between sources of shade.
Client - Vet Relationship: Develop a working relationship with a local livestock veterinarian. You can do a lot for your cattle yourself, but it's best to have an expert that you can reach out to. Plus, these days many medications including antibiotics require a veterinary prescription.
Well-stocked Calf Kit: If you'll be breeding your Mini Herefords, put together a calving kit in a weather resistant container BEFORE the need arises. At minimum, you'll want veterinary lubricant, shoulder-length gloves, OB chains, towels, mucus bulb, thermometer, calf coats, iodine, and scissors. Your vet can recommend other things to have on hand and other items you'll add as you gain experience. Even though we've had many calves born, I like to keep printed guidelines on the progression of calving and when to intervene. We also keep track of birth weights so a scale, pen, and paper are good to have in the calf box.
Good Grass: Not sure what's growing in your field? Reach out to your local extension office or farm co-op for guidance, especially if you plan to amend the soil or re-seed.
Hay: Hay is essential winter feed. See my note in the above section about estimating hay for your herd.
Water: Set up at least one water trough with an auto-fill valve on it. Cattle will drink a lot during the heat of summer.
Holding Pen with Alley: We were able to get by with our Mini Herefords for several years without a holding pen, but it would have made a lot of jobs much easier if we had one to begin with. I now consider it a must-have.
Shade: Here in Georgia, our cattle don't need a barn but they do need plenty of shade. When it's 98* outside with 70% humidity, don't make your cattle travel too far between sources of shade.
Client - Vet Relationship: Develop a working relationship with a local livestock veterinarian. You can do a lot for your cattle yourself, but it's best to have an expert that you can reach out to. Plus, these days many medications including antibiotics require a veterinary prescription.
Well-stocked Calf Kit: If you'll be breeding your Mini Herefords, put together a calving kit in a weather resistant container BEFORE the need arises. At minimum, you'll want veterinary lubricant, shoulder-length gloves, OB chains, towels, mucus bulb, thermometer, calf coats, iodine, and scissors. Your vet can recommend other things to have on hand and other items you'll add as you gain experience. Even though we've had many calves born, I like to keep printed guidelines on the progression of calving and when to intervene. We also keep track of birth weights so a scale, pen, and paper are good to have in the calf box.
What Kind of Fencing Do I Need?
Choosing your fencing material is a personal choice that may be affected by your budget, your skill level, and the terrain of your pastures. As long as your Mini Herefords have access to everything they need, they don't usually look for ways to escape. That said, a sturdy perimeter fence is an absolute must!
We have 6 strands of barbed wire fencing as our perimeter fence and 4 strands for cross-fencing. Barbed wire is economical, easy to install, easy to repair, and works very well if you have hilly pastures. Barbed wire doesn't keep predators out of the pasture, which may be a consideration for your area. Calves can also go through, although the only time (so far) we've had a calf escape was when he got spooked and felt cornered.
You should be checking your perimeter fence at least once a week and after high winds or storms, especially if your property is wooded. Good pliers, wire cutters, fence clips, gloves, zip ties, and lengths of wire should be on hand when you do your fence check to allow you to make at least a temporary repair while you're out there.
We have 6 strands of barbed wire fencing as our perimeter fence and 4 strands for cross-fencing. Barbed wire is economical, easy to install, easy to repair, and works very well if you have hilly pastures. Barbed wire doesn't keep predators out of the pasture, which may be a consideration for your area. Calves can also go through, although the only time (so far) we've had a calf escape was when he got spooked and felt cornered.
You should be checking your perimeter fence at least once a week and after high winds or storms, especially if your property is wooded. Good pliers, wire cutters, fence clips, gloves, zip ties, and lengths of wire should be on hand when you do your fence check to allow you to make at least a temporary repair while you're out there.
Polled - Horned - Disbudded
Miniature Herefords come horned or polled (naturally without horns). There are merits to both and different producers have different preferences. In this segment, I will briefly explain what these terms mean and why it's important to know the difference.
Horned Cattle: Horned cattle are born with horns. If you breed two Herefords with horns, their calf will have horns. Sometimes, the horn buds are removed on calves. This animal has been disbudded but its registration certificate will still say "horned".
Polled Cattle: Polled cattle are born WITHOUT horns. This is NOT the same as having the horns removed, this cow never had horns to begin with. Polled cattle genetics can be heterozygous polled which means the cow itself is polled, but carries the gene to produce polled or horns in her calves. Polled genetics can also be homozygous polled, which means the cow ONLY has polled genes and will only produce polled calves.
Why does it matter? Horns can be useful to cattle to protect themselves. Horns can also damage fencing and equipment and cause injury to other cattle or you. Disbudding or dehorning cattle adds extra steps to your management protocol and not every producer is equipped with a disbudding iron. Horned Mini Herefords are often more competitive in the show-ring. Correct terminology is important whether you register your Mini Herefords or not. Hereford registration certificates reflect the horned/polled status of the animal, which can be easily confirmed through DNA testing. Your buyers are relying on your integrity to get the animal they want.
Horned Cattle: Horned cattle are born with horns. If you breed two Herefords with horns, their calf will have horns. Sometimes, the horn buds are removed on calves. This animal has been disbudded but its registration certificate will still say "horned".
Polled Cattle: Polled cattle are born WITHOUT horns. This is NOT the same as having the horns removed, this cow never had horns to begin with. Polled cattle genetics can be heterozygous polled which means the cow itself is polled, but carries the gene to produce polled or horns in her calves. Polled genetics can also be homozygous polled, which means the cow ONLY has polled genes and will only produce polled calves.
Why does it matter? Horns can be useful to cattle to protect themselves. Horns can also damage fencing and equipment and cause injury to other cattle or you. Disbudding or dehorning cattle adds extra steps to your management protocol and not every producer is equipped with a disbudding iron. Horned Mini Herefords are often more competitive in the show-ring. Correct terminology is important whether you register your Mini Herefords or not. Hereford registration certificates reflect the horned/polled status of the animal, which can be easily confirmed through DNA testing. Your buyers are relying on your integrity to get the animal they want.
Should I Register My Cattle?
This is a personal decision. We have had customers inquire about both registered and non-registered Mini Herefords so there is a market for both. Registered cattle tend to bring a higher price but require accurate record-keeping, there is an upfront cost of registration for calves, and marketing to customers who want a registered animal. Non-registered or "commercial" cattle may bring a lower price each, but the producer can perhaps get by with less record-keeping, lower upfront costs, and ease of selling through sale barns.
Registration and DNA testing is appealing to customers who want quality breeding or show stock. Registration is not needed and may add unnecessary costs if your primary goal is beef production.
Registration and DNA testing is appealing to customers who want quality breeding or show stock. Registration is not needed and may add unnecessary costs if your primary goal is beef production.
Grass-fed or Grain-fed?
This is another personal preference. If you are purchasing cattle, look for someone who raises their cattle in the way you plan to raise. If you want grass-fed cattle, don't buy from someone who heavily feeds grain. Those cattle likely won't hold condition on a grass-only diet.
Should I Keep a Bull?
Maybe.
Hereford bulls tend to be more calm than bulls of other breeds. However, they are still 1,000+ pounds of muscle and testosterone that should never be fully trusted. Our herd bull in the photo above is almost a pet toward me, but I don't entirely trust him around my husband and certainly not around people he doesn't know.
I personally prefer starting with a weaned bull calf and raising him how I want rather than starting with a mature bull who has unknown experiences with humans. NEVER keep a bottle bull. If a bull calf needs to be bottle fed, he should be castrated.
A healthy bull has a higher success rate of "settling" (impregnating) your cows than artificial insemination. However, he brings his own set of needs. If you are a small farm with just a couple of cows, I would probably consider leasing a bull for a few weeks to breed your cows or purchasing semen straws for AI before I kept a bull full-time. With artificial insemination, you can purchase heifer straws that nearly guarantee any resulting calf is a heifer.
Hereford bulls tend to be more calm than bulls of other breeds. However, they are still 1,000+ pounds of muscle and testosterone that should never be fully trusted. Our herd bull in the photo above is almost a pet toward me, but I don't entirely trust him around my husband and certainly not around people he doesn't know.
I personally prefer starting with a weaned bull calf and raising him how I want rather than starting with a mature bull who has unknown experiences with humans. NEVER keep a bottle bull. If a bull calf needs to be bottle fed, he should be castrated.
A healthy bull has a higher success rate of "settling" (impregnating) your cows than artificial insemination. However, he brings his own set of needs. If you are a small farm with just a couple of cows, I would probably consider leasing a bull for a few weeks to breed your cows or purchasing semen straws for AI before I kept a bull full-time. With artificial insemination, you can purchase heifer straws that nearly guarantee any resulting calf is a heifer.
Breeding Mini Herefords
I prefer to wait until a heifer is 18-24 months of age before exposing her to a bull. This is especially important for the smaller Minis.
A cow is pregnant for 9 months. MOST of the time, cows give birth to a single calf. Twins are less common and less desirable - especially if one or both twins are females due to the chance of free-martins.
Cows can usually give birth unassisted, although I like to be on hand just in case. Once labor starts it should progress quickly. If the labor doesn't progress, you will need to help. Consult your vet for things to look for and when to intervene.
A cow is pregnant for 9 months. MOST of the time, cows give birth to a single calf. Twins are less common and less desirable - especially if one or both twins are females due to the chance of free-martins.
Cows can usually give birth unassisted, although I like to be on hand just in case. Once labor starts it should progress quickly. If the labor doesn't progress, you will need to help. Consult your vet for things to look for and when to intervene.